Do you know how to crochet a pillow? There’s obviously a bunch of different ways to do it, but the style that I see most often starts out as two crochet squares that are sewn together around a pillow form. Sounds pretty easy, right? That’s because it is! So no worries if you are a new crocheter, because I have beginner-friendly free crochet pillow patterns for you to do.
Today, I am going to share with you a wonderful crochet project! This crochet pillow cover is the perfect pattern to get you hooking on crochet. It will add a bit of elegance and will definitely brighten up your décor.
The best part will be that moment when you are finally able to display all your hard work on your couch or your bed. Plus, this crochet pillow pattern is as practical as they it is cute. It is perfect for snuggling with while you watch a movie or read a book. So prepare yourself for a cozy experience!
This beautiful crochet pillow cover offer you an easy way to change up the entire decor of a room. While some crochet pillows are designed to be stuffed with a pillow form and then seamed shut, this crochet pillow is designed to be a removable pillow covers that can be easily washed and switched out from season to season. Depending on your decor style, you may want to crochet this pillow colors that are colorful or neutral.
BEFORE WE BEGIN… LET’S GET SOCIAL!
Follow me on Facebok and Pinterest (I pin many free patterns to my boards)
Stitches & abbreviations
– st: stitch
– ch: chain
– dc: double crochet
– sl. st: slip stitch
– puff stitch: puff stitch (yarn over, pull up a long loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull up a long loop in same st (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull up a long loop in same st (7 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 7 loops on your hook, chain 1 to secure the stitch)
– v-st: v stitch (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc in one st)
Notes
– This pattern is written in US terminology.
– This project is worked in rounds with the right side facing you.
– Beginnings and ends of rounds will take place within the same stich.
– Slip stitches do not count as a stitch.
Materials
- For this crcohet pillow cover I used Wool-Ease Thick & Quick Yarn , 97 Meters, FishermanWool Ease Solids, Heathers & Twists, from Lion Brand.
- 6mm crochet hook size
- scrissors
Before you start I prepared for you some Essential Crochet Tips & Tricks to Learn
Magic ring
Nearly all, if not all crochet projects that are worked in a round start with a magic ring.
It’s an alternative to chaining and slip stitching into the first chain to create a ring.
With a magic ring the middle of the project is completely sealed, whereas, with a chain & slip stitch, there’s a hole in the center.
There are two ways to create a magic ring:
First method:
Take the beginning of your yarn and make a loop with it, crossing the end under the yarn coming from the skein.
Hold the part where the yarns come together with your fingers.
Let the yarn from the skein go behind your loop, insert hook under that yarn and over, to grab the furthest side of the loop.
Pull the loop through to the top of the ring.
While continuing to hold the loop (with any finger other than the ones holding your hook). Let go of the part where the two yarns cross.
If you’re doing a project in single crochet, chain 1 and complete your stitch. If you’re doing your project in double crochet, chain 2.
Crochet the stitches in your ring according to your pattern.
Second method:
Wrap the yarn around two of your fingers twice, to where the yarn makes an “X” shape on your fingers.
Using your hook, go over the first string and under the second, twist, and pull through.
Do your first few chains in this ring.
Tying Yarn Together (when a skein is ending and you’re starting another one)
When you’re working on a longer project that requires multiple skeins (or balls) of yarn, it’s important to know how to correctly connect the two yarns together.
Tying it in a knot is an option, but there’s no guarantee that they will not come apart.
Also, it leaves two small tails out that are a bit difficult to work into your project.
Using what’s called a Magic Knot, you’re creating a more seamless transition.
Here’s how:
Continue crocheting until there are roughly three inches left of the yarn you’re currently using.
At that point, take your new yarn and hold it next to your old yarn, leaving a tail of about three inches of the new yarn.
Crochet one stitch holding both yarns together, then drop the old yarn and continue crocheting with the new one.
This method keeps your project from having bumps and knots everywhere and is a foolproof way to keep your yarns from separating.
Switching Colors
When you move on to more complicated crochet projects, you’ll probably start to switch colors while you’re working.
If you’re creating a stripe pattern with yarn that is not self-striping or you’re doing a color block project, you’ll want to seamlessly transition between the two colors for a clean, neat look to your project.
Here’s how:
Right before you stop crocheting, start doing a normal stitch with your current yarn. Insert the hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, then stop.
Finish the stitch with your new yarn by putting the new yarn on the hook and holding the tail with your fingers. Keep crocheting with your new yarn.
This is a simple but effective way to switch yarn colors.
Chainless Foundation Chain
A chainless foundation chain is a crochet term for combining the first row of chains and the first row of stitches into one.
This technique overall makes crocheting easier. It keeps the first row of regular stitches from twisting like it normally does.
It also prevents the frustration of realizing you miscounted the chains on your bottom row since you’re doing the base chains and first row of stitches together.
Here’s how to do a foundation chain (single crochet):
Create a slip knot and chain 2.
Insert hook into the first chain so that it grabs the left of the first chain and the center of the stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. There should be two loops on your hook.
Yarn over and draw up another loop.
Yarn over and insert hook through both loops. You have created the first single crochet.
For the next stitch, insert the hook into the chain of the previous stitch, and repeat the same process from part one. (Insert, yarn over, draw loop, yarn over, draw loop, yarn over, draw through both loops.
Continue to work your single crochets, but work them vertically. It will be easier than trying to do it horizontally.
You’ve now saved yourself some time and learned a new crochet skill!
Crocheting Over Ends
Weaving ends in is the bane of the crocheter’s existence.
It takes a long time and is tedious. But luckily, there’s another way to keep those ends in without weaving or cutting them.
After you’ve cut your yarn, hold the end of the yarn up to your current row to crochet over it until it disappears.
This gets them out of the way and saves you the pain of weaving them in.
I hope these crochet techniques help you to become a better crocheter and make this craft even more enjoyable!
The pattern uses most double crochet stiches. It can be made by the beginners as well as by advace crocheters.
They are commonly used as ornaments to decorate Christmas trees but can also be used around the house for decoration purposes. Angel motifs are a great gift idea too!
Crochet Pillow Cover Pattern
Round 1: ch5, sl st with the first ch to form a ring.
Round 2: ch3 (counts as the first dc), *ch 2, dc; rep from * for 6 more times, sl st in the tird ch from the beginning of the row (8dc, 8 ch-2 sp).
Round 3: sl st in the first ch-2 sp, *1 puff stich, ch2, 1 puff st into the next ch-2 sp, ch2, puff st in the same ch-2 sp, ch1; rep from * around. Join with a sl st on the top of the first puff st. (You will have on each side of the square 1 puff st, and in every corner 2 puff sts separated by ch 3.)
Round 4: sl st in the first ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the same ch-space, *3dc in the next ch-sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch-sp, 3 dc in the next ch-sp; rep from * around. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (You will have on each side of the square 2 sets of 3dc sts, and in every corner 2 sets of 3dc sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 5:ch3 (counts as the first dc) +ch1, dc in the same st (first V-stich), sk2, [1 V-st on the 3rd st] rep till the corner ch-space, 1 V-st, ch 2, 1 V-stich, sk 2, continue with a V stich every 3rd st and in the corner space work 1 V-st, ch2, 1 V-st, join with a sl st in the first V-st of the round. ( You will have on each side of the square 3 V-sts, and every in corner 2 V-sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 6: *1 puff st in every V-st till the corner corner space which is ch-2 space, 1 puf st in the corner sp, ch 3, 1 puff st in the same space; rep from * around, join with a sl st in the first puff st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 5 puff sts, and in every corner 2 puff sts separated by ch 3.)
Round 7: sl st in the first ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the same ch-space, *3dc in the next ch-sps, till the corner space, 3 dc in the corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same corner-sp, 3 dc in the next ch-sp; rep from * around. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (You will have on each side of the square 6 sets of 3dc sts, and in every corner 2 sets of 3dc sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 8: ch3 (counts as the first dc) +ch1, dc in the same st (first V-stich), sk2, [1 V-st on the 3rd st] rep till the corner ch-space, 1 V-st, ch 2, 1 V-stich, sk 2, continue with a V stich every 3rd st and in the corner space work 1 V-st, ch2, 1 V-st, join with a sl st in the first V-st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 7 V-sts, and every corner 2 V-sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 9: *1 puff st in every V-st till the corner corner space which is ch-2 space, 1 puf st in the corner sp, ch 3, 1 puff st in the same space; rep from * around, join with a sl st in the first puff st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 9 puff sts, and every corner 2 puff sts separated by ch 3.)
Round 10: :sl st in the first ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the same ch-space, *3dc in the next ch-sps, till the corner space, 3 dc in the corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same corner-sp, 3 dc in the next ch-sp; rep from * around. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (You will have on each side of the square 10 sets of 3dc sts, and every corner 2 sets of 3dc sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 11: : ch3 (counts as the first dc) +ch1, dc in the same st (first V-stich), sk2, [1 V-st on the 3rd st] rep till the corner ch-space, 1 V-st, ch 2, 1 V-stich, sk 2, continue with a V stich every 3rd st and in the corner space work 1 V-st, ch2, 1 V-st, join with a sl st in the first V-st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 11 V-sts, and every corner 2 V-sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 12: *1 puff st in every V-st till the corner corner space which is ch-2 space, 1 puf st in the corner sp, ch 3, 1 puff st in the same space; rep from * around, join with a sl st in the first puff st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 13 puff sts, and every corner 2 puff sts separated by ch 3.)
Round 13: :sl st in the first ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the same ch-space, *3dc in the next ch-sps, till the corner space, 3 dc in the corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same corner-sp, 3 dc in the next ch-sp; rep from * around. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (You will have on each side of the square 14 sets of 3dc sts, and every corner 2 sets of 3dc sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 14: : ch3 (counts as the first dc) +ch1, dc in the same st (first V-stich), sk2, [1 V-st on the 3rd st] rep till the corner ch-space, 1 V-st, ch 2, 1 V-stich, sk 2, continue with a V stich every 3rd st and in the corner space work 1 V-st, ch2, 1 V-st, join with a sl st in the first V-st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 15 V-sts, and every corner 2 V-sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 15: *1 puff st in every V-st till the corner corner space which is ch-2 space, 1 puf st in the corner sp, ch 3, 1 puff st in the same space; rep from * around, join with a sl st in the first puff st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 17 puff sts, and every corner 2 puff sts separated by ch 3.)
Round 16: :sl st in the first ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the same ch-space, *3dc in the next ch-sps, till the corner space, 3 dc in the corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same corner-sp, 3 dc in the next ch-sp; rep from * around. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (You will have on each side of the square 18 sets of 3dc sts, and every corner 2 sets of 3dc sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 17: : ch3 (counts as the first dc) +ch1, dc in the same st (first V-stich), sk2, [1 V-st on the 3rd st] rep till the corner ch-space, 1 V-st, ch 2, 1 V-stich, sk 2, continue with a V stich every 3rd st and in the corner space work 1 V-st, ch2, 1 V-st, join with a sl st in the first V-st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 19 V-sts, and every corner 2 V-sts separated by ch 2.)
Round 18: *1 puff st in every V-st till the corner corner space which is ch-2 space, 1 puf st in the corner sp, ch 3, 1 puff st in the same space; rep from * around, join with a sl st in the first puff st of the round. (You will have on each side of the square 21 puff sts, and every corner 2 puff sts separated by ch 3.)
Round 19: :sl st in the first ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as the first dc), 2 dc in the same ch-space, *3dc in the next ch-sps, till the corner space, 3 dc in the corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same corner-sp, 3 dc in the next ch-sp; rep from * around. Join with a sl st in the first dc. (You will have on each side of the square 22 sets of 3dc sts, and every corner 2 sets of 3dc sts separated by ch 2.)
If you want to make a larger crochet pillow case, repeat round 17 to 19. Make sure to have the last round of your crochet pillow case the round of dc sts.
Back part of pillow
For the back part of this crochet pillow cover you need to make another identical square of this pattern.
Join both sides of the crochet pillow cover
Line up the two squares and join them together working sl sts around the three sides of the pillow cover join. Insert the pillow and continue to join the last side.
If you desire to crochet removable pillow covers that can be easily washed and switched out from season to season, then only.
To join both sides of the pillow, join the front and back using a slst, continue across.
I hope that you all enjoyed making this project as much as I did! I would love if you followed along on my desining journey through Facebook and my blog. I would love to see photos of your finished pieces, so be sure to tag me.
>>> Pin it for later <<<
Subscribe to receive directly in your email more beautiful free patterns designs:
What’s Next?
Pin this post: Save this tutorial to your >>> Pinterest<<< boards so that you can come back to it later.
Leave a comment: We love to hear your feedback. Tell me in the comments below!
Share on Facebook: When you make this project, share it on social media and tag me.
Have questions? Join the Facebook Group! We created this group for you to share pictures, ask questions, and help each other out.
Happy Crocheting!
Crochet Studio 